After over 50 years of serving the community, the Lucky supermarket on South Park Victoria Drive closed down in 2023 due to low profits, according to The Milpitas Beat article “Lucky grocery store in Milpitas will be closing on January 13.” Soon after, its bright red sign was replaced with saffron, green, and white—the colors of the Indian flag—letters spelling out “Apni Mandi,” the name of the supermarket that replaced Lucky.
Indian supermarkets like Apni Mandi are on the rise in Milpitas: from the newer India Metro Hypermarket to the long-established New India Bazaar, there are now at least seven prominent local Indian grocery stores, according to Google Maps.
This growth may be because of Milpitas’s evolving population, as Asians went from about 51% of the population in 2000 to about 71% in 2020, according to the United States Census Bureau. Furthermore, as more Indians continue to immigrate to the United States and share their cuisine, many non-Indians have also come to appreciate India’s rich spices and foods, increasing demand for ethnic supermarkets.
The shopping experience at Indian supermarkets is certainly unique; catering to the local Indian diaspora, aromatic spices like chili powder and staples like rice, dal (lentils), and roti (flatbread) are often in stock. Pre-packaged sweets like laddus and fresh savory foods like samosas are also common.
Like other grocery stores, there is also a section of fresh produce with items like onions and tomatoes, ubiquitous in Indian curries. One thing to note is that the produce often has a farmers-market-like quality, with occasional blemishes. More niche items include karivepaku (curry leaves) and okra—ingredients that all, Indians and non-Indians alike, can explore and enjoy.
Especially in smaller Indian stores, the layout can be cramped and unpolished. Most stores have a TV in the corner showing a Bollywood music video or loudspeakers playing traditional Indian music.
However, these Indian supermarkets are much more than a place to shop for groceries and snacks: they’re a way to stay connected to Indian heritage and continue traditions. Whenever my family needs neem flowers for Ugadi, the New Year for Telugu- and Kannada-speaking people, the cashier knows exactly what we’re looking for. As we check out, they make small talk in Telugu and Hindi. Instead of Snickers bars and Gatorade, the checkout aisles are lined with items like Cadbury Gems, the Indian version of M&M’s, and henna cones for temporary tattoos. Overall, the stores tend to be intimate and homely.
For many, ethnic supermarkets go beyond their roles as grocery stores—they’re a microcosm of home and a way to stay connected to their native culture.